Shocks and struts
Control how the body settles after a bump. Worn ones let the car float, nose-dive under braking and bounce the tire off the road, which is a grip problem as much as a comfort one.

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It fails slowly, which is why nobody notices
Suspension is the system drivers adapt to without noticing. It fails over years rather than overnight, so the floating, the clunk over bumps and the extra foot of braking distance all become normal, and the difference only registers when the new parts go on.
It is also a grip system rather than a comfort one. The job of a shock is to keep the tire pressed to the road surface. When it stops doing that properly the tire skips on rough pavement, and anything the tire was supposed to do, braking, steering, holding a line in the rain, it does slightly less of.
So we road test, inspect every joint on the lift, and tell you plainly what is worn, what is starting, and what is still fine. Plenty of cars come in expecting struts and leave with a pair of sway bar links.

Every part we work on
Control how the body settles after a bump. Worn ones let the car float, nose-dive under braking and bounce the tire off the road, which is a grip problem as much as a comfort one.
The pivot between the control arm and the wheel. Wear shows as a clunk over bumps and vague steering, and a failed one is a serious safety matter.
Locate the wheel and absorb the small movements. Perished bushings produce a clunk, a wandering feel and alignment that will not stay set.
Connect the steering rack to the wheel. Play here is felt as slop in the wheel and shows up as rapid feathered tire wear.
The cheapest part on this list and the most common cause of a rattle over small bumps. Often blamed on something far more expensive.
A hum or growl that rises with road speed and changes as you steer gently left and right. Worth catching early; this one gets loud and then gets serious.
Where play, stiffness and leaks appear. A rack is a larger repair, which is exactly why it should be confirmed rather than assumed.
Pump, lines, fluid and on later cars the electric assist motor. Groaning when parking and heavy steering at low speed both start here.
What the noise means
Shocks and struts
Not a replacement interval, but the point at which the difference starts being measurable rather than theoretical.
Most original shocks and struts are tired by here. Rough roads and heavy loads bring it forward.
An oily film down the body means the seal has gone and the damping with it.
A new shock on one side and a worn one on the other makes the car handle unevenly, which is worse than two tired ones.
Replacing struts changes the suspension geometry, so an alignment is part of the job rather than an upsell.

The questions people ask
Push down hard on one corner and let go. A healthy shock settles in one movement; a worn one keeps bouncing. Beyond that, the signs are nose-diving under braking, floating over crests and cupped patches on the tire tread.
Across an axle, yes. A new one on one side and a tired one on the other gives the car uneven damping, which is worse for handling than two evenly worn units.
Sway bar links more often than anything else, and they are among the cheapest parts on the car. We rule those out before looking at ball joints and bushings.
Steer gently left and right at a steady speed on an empty road. A bearing noise changes as the load shifts across the car; tire noise generally does not.
Anything that changes the geometry does, which includes struts, control arms and tie rods. We include it rather than leaving you to find out later through tire wear.
Usually power steering: low or old fluid, a tiring pump, or on later vehicles the electric assist motor. We check fluid and pressure before anyone quotes a pump.
Worn ball joints, torn boots and leaking shocks are the components that fail suddenly rather than gradually, so a car that feels normal one week can change without warning. That is what makes them worth looking at early rather than leaving to see how they go.
Getting a longer life out of it
What drivers say
I needed a simple brake service, but I did not expect these guys work in the 21st century environment. They communicated with me via detailed text messages, and kept me involved in all decision-making.
Came here for brake pads and rotors. Got a good price, and they did a good job. They did a road test also.
Great service, they got me in same day for full brakes front and back. Definitely recommend.
Suspension repair near me
Suspension repair near me, shocks and struts replacement, steering repair and wheel bearing replacement all describe work we do at Clifton, Franklin, Hawthorne and Newton.
Suspension work usually finishes with an alignment, and cupped or scalloped tire wear is one of the clearest signs the dampers are done.
Answers to some of the questions KRP Automotive customers ask most. Still not sure? Give us a call, we’re happy to help.
Nose-diving under braking, floating over crests, a bouncy ride on rough pavement and cupped patches on the tire tread. Push down on one corner and let go: a healthy shock settles in one movement.
It spans a wide range, which is why diagnosis matters. Sway bar links are among the cheapest parts on the car, while struts or a steering rack are considerably more. We road test and inspect before quoting.
Sway bar links are the most common answer by a distance, followed by worn bushings and ball joints. The cheap parts get ruled out first rather than last.
Often. A bearing hum rises with road speed and changes as you steer gently left and right at a steady speed. Tire noise generally does not change that way.
Across an axle, yes. Uneven damping left to right makes the car handle worse than two evenly worn units would.
Any repair that changes the geometry does, including struts, control arms and tie rods. We include the alignment rather than leaving you to discover it through tire wear.
Power steering, in most cases: fluid condition, the pump, or on later vehicles the electric assist motor. Fluid and pressure get checked before anyone quotes a pump.
Our suspension specialists measure ride height and check every joint on the lift before quoting, because a worn bush and a worn ball joint feel identical from the driver's seat and cost very different money.
Most repairs at KRP Automotive are guaranteed for as long as you own your vehicle. If you pay for a repair at our shop, you shouldn’t have to pay for it again, that’s our promise at all four open New Jersey locations.